After checking for fit, apply a heavy bead of the provided adhesive around the perimeter of the corner panel, about 1 in. Apply additional beads behind the soap dishes and across the center of the panel. Then, peel the backing paper from the foam tape and carefully set the panel in place.
Press the panel firmly into the corner so that it sticks on one side. When all looks well, press down the remaining side until the tape takes hold. Finish by running a hand over the entire panel, top to bottom, to make sure the adhesive makes full contact with the wall. Install the second corner in similar fashion. Measure the distance between the corners and mark the centerline on the tub.
Then, lay the middle panel on sawhorses and mark its center on the bottom. Turn the panel over and apply adhesive to the perimeter, behind the soap dishes and in a large, looping pattern across the middle. Pull the backing paper from the perimeter tape, set the panel on the tub and carefully align the two center marks. Finally, bend the bottom of the panel to the wall, sticking it in place.
Gradually stick the rest of the panel, working from the bottom up. The side panel opposite to the spout will go on like the center panel, but will be aligned with the vertical reference line you've drawn. The plumbing-wall panel, however, requires a little more attention.
Begin by laying the panel on two 2 x 4s resting on sawhorses. At the tub, measure from the reference line to the center of the spout pipe. Then, measure from the top of the tub to the center of the spout pipe and do the same with the faucet. If the faucet's trim plate is recessed, like ours, you'll also need to take its measurement, sizing the cut to fit the plate's concave center.
Transfer each measurement to the panel, one at a time, and double-check each one. Use a 1-in. Then, use the same bit to bore a starter hole for the faucet. Loosen this screw and pull the spout straight off. To keep from damaging the chrome finish, insert plier handles into the spout opening and unscrew it from its pipe nipple Fig.
Just grip the wrench surfaces of the head with an open-end wrench and back out the head, arm and flange. Tub surrounds can sometimes be installed over existing tile, but only when conditions are right. All things considered, removing the tiles is often a better option. While you may find lower tiles ready to fall away from soggy wallboard, the upper tiles will be stuck tight.
You may even have to break each tile and pry off the pieces. When breaking tiles, be sure to wear a face mask and protective clothing. In some cases, it makes sense to cut the drywall and pull it all down in a few pieces, then put up new drywall or backing board to support the new surround. First, tape cardboard over the tub to protect it. When the compound dries, sand it lightly, paint it with a stain-killing primer and allow it to dry completely.
Use a hacksaw to cut them to length, then peel the paper backing from the foam tape on each piece and stick the pieces to the wall Fig. Finally, use a 4-ft. With the front edges established, prepare to set the corner panels. If your tub and walls are far from square, you may need to file a little off the bottom of one or two panels. After checking for fit, apply a heavy bead of the provided adhesive around the perimeter of the corner panel, about 1 in.
Apply additional beads behind the soap dishes and across the center of the panel Fig. Then, peel the backing paper from the foam tape Fig. Press the panel firmly into the corner so that it sticks on one side Fig.
Next, find a unit that maintains its watertight seal without caulk — unless you really enjoy renewing caulk every few years. It's a four-piece design tub, back wall and two side walls so you can move all the pieces into place easily. It's designed for DIYers with tongue-and-groove wall panels that fit together with tabs and slots.
The wall panels incorporate factory seals that provide a seamless look that's watertight and never needs caulking. Installation Tips Prepping the site is critical to achieving a perfect installation, so spend the time to get it right before you begin the installation.
Concentrate on these five preparation steps:. Wait another 24 hours for the caulk to fully cure before using your tub or shower. Actively scan device characteristics for identification. Use precise geolocation data. Select personalised content. Create a personalised content profile. Measure ad performance. Select basic ads. Create a personalised ads profile. Select personalised ads. Apply market research to generate audience insights.
Measure content performance. Develop and improve products. List of Partners vendors. Project Overview. Tip While this one is much more manageable and DIY-friendly than other plumbing or bathroom-makeover projects, even a slight error in application can leave your bathroom looking haphazard.
Featured Video. Prepare the Walls Adhesive surround kits can be installed over just about any flat wall surface in good condition, including tile or drywall. Tip If your kit uses corner panels, make sure to test-fit these in their proper locations. Tip You can use a large sheet of cardboard cut to match the front surround panel to create a template for drilling holes for the surround panel. Tip Some installation pros like to run a bead of silicone caulk along the edge of the tub or shower base just before pressing each panel into place on the wall.
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